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November and December 2010 Newsletter

Contents

• Secretary’s report
• President’s Report 
• Captain’s Reports
• Prize winners
• 20th Anniversary Reunion dinner
• Board raffle winner
• Pic of the Month
• End of year presentation party and 2010 results
• Members profile: Mel Mott
• Sons of Torrance Beach: and a saltwater story of a family named Irons
• Book Report: Mr Sunset
• Frank Fenner memorial
• Party Hardy

Secretary’s Report

               
Well, the big news is: is that big news is everywhere! Where to start is the only challenge! We have collectively waited twenty years to have a twenty year anniversary and reunion, and we have now been there and done that. More later.

The end of the year is upon us (‘Here I come, ready or not!’). End of year presentation party, hypothetical last surf (in slop) and all of that. That’s pretty big too, no?

Another biggie is that Grant Edwards has been Chris Bull’s saviour and has volunteered to keep the web site going. I’ve been liaising with Grant in that regard and things are looking promising. There will be a period where some things will be in the midst of being worked out, but when it all comes together there will be, hopefully, more frequent capacity to add updates as well as improved functionality on our web site for all to enjoy.

Chris has been advising Grant as to the technicals of how its been set up and Grant has been combing the web for new programs to use to deliver our club information better. This takes time but we’re starting to see the fruits of Grant’s labour now. The first one off the rank has been installed for the latest galleries. The idea is to make it easier to run through the photos and also to enlarge them at will.

Your feedback is important to us and everybody. Feedback time will probably be for an extended period… for as long as it takes us to work out the best way to do it. If you’re having trouble navigating or anything else, please let us know.
At this stage of things I want to personally and on behalf of the Club extend a great big “Thank You” to Chris for all his efforts on the website over the years. First of all, he really got it up, established and running well when he first got stuck into it. Secondly he really put a lot into it during his two years as Secretary. Thirdly, and very importantly, Chris has made time to upload each month’s newsletter that I’ve been producing. Given Chris’ decision to take on two businesses, his spare time hasn’t really been there to ‘spare’ in 2010…but he has kept on loading the newsletters and galleries we’ve prepared, regardless (of profit margins, no doubt). Thanks very much, Chris.

As  I’ve said, Grant will be transitioning to Webmaster starting from now on. I’m sure Chris will always be on the phone for us when needed. Assuming South Wall isn’t on if/when we need to call, that is! Grant also needs some time to go through the learning curve so thanks for your patience while we both get up to speed.

In this end of the year more or less edition of Flat Rock Ravings we have our super-star glamour queen and SUP specialist sharing her life story with us in her Members Profile. There’s the ‘last’ of my book reports: Mr Sunset by Phil Jarratt, the story of Jeff Hakman. This particular biography has a direct link with another story I’ve decided to share which is very special for the mates I started surfing with.

All surfers were stunned in early November at the news of the tragic and untimely death of Andy Irons. Never before has the surfing world faced quite anything like this. I have been slowly putting together a story about the roots of the multiple world champion’s surfing prowess. It’s called SONS OF TORRANCE BEACH: and a story of a family named Irons. As I write this, desperately trying to finish before the end of the ‘surfing year’, I might have to put in a place-holding link and upload it later. It’s turned out to be a bit more photographically than I anticipated.

So, sorry that it all gets squished at the end of the year, but it gets out and that’s the main thing. We’ll also be updating with a report on the End-of-year party and presentations.

See you soon, perhaps even before you read this!! Happy holidays and hope for a frickin’ offshore someday (year?) soon.

Secretarially yours,
Alan

President’s Report

It's finally over - our 20th Anniversary celebrations. What a good night. Around 120 people there & all having a great time catching up with friends & fellow surfers. Good food, good music & good people - a recipe for success.

Thanks again to our committee for such a great job. All your hard work paid off. It was a great time to be President of our club & get the opportunity to present our first life membership to Peter, Eric & Phil. Congratulations guys you deserved it.

Conditions on Sunday were a bit testing but we got through it. Numbers were down no doubt due to a few hangovers from the previous night. Those of you who made it picked up valuable points for the end of year awards. Don't miss December as all the divisions are still wide open.

How bad has the surf been. I know i've got fussy in my old age but the conditions of late have been terrible. The positive thing is that it can only get better - we hope. Next comp is Sunday 5th followed by our presentation day at Pete & Kerry’s house starting around 5pm. The club will be picking up the tab for everything so all you need to bring is yourself & whatever Marg requires eg. cakes salads etc.

Hope you all get some surf soon.  Regards, Wazza.

Captains report B.M.C November 2010

Well the November club round kicked off on Sunday morning after partying at our 20th Anniversary function the night before. There were a few bloodshot eyes & the noise was kept to a minimum for those nursing a hangover. Unfortunately the surf was very demanding at times with overhead sets breaking off the point plus a few peaks to the north.

The paddle out was really testing some members including myself with overhead sets rolling in one after the other and few times I was wondering which way was up underwater after copping a few poundings and what the hell am I doing out in this finally common sense prevailed and it was time to come in.

Overall the day turned out to be a good social occasion for those that turned up with Steve Watts pulling off 1st place in the Firsts, good work Steve. A few other members decided that they had enough after the 1st round and just sat back and relaxed taking in the views. If I had to pick an award for surfer of the day it would be Gavin Calnan for his endurance and perseverance in the final heat believe me I was out there with him getting cleaned up by the sets, I take my hat off to you Gav well done.

A special thanks goes to Wazza for relieving me of the captains duties at the table as well as keeping the troops happy with a cold beer at the end of the proceedings. Well that’s all from me folks short & sweet.

See you all in the water.
Captain Bruce

Captains report B.M.C December 2010

Hi there fellow surfers,

Well another year has nearly gone by and now all we have to look forward to over the next few months are those dreaded nor’easters blowing onshore, heaps of screaming grommets and intestate visitors grovelling around in amongst the waves and people wonder why I hit the surf at sparrow fart in order to seek sanity away from the masses.

This year with the club seen at good turnout of members with only a couple rounds postponed. We were blessed with some classic days and not so classic days. If anyone has seen the two sand banks that have formed recently at flattie will know when the conditions are right the place will go off that is if we do not get any cyclonic or big seas to wash them away. 

The December club round was postponed due to the atrocious conditions we were faced with, thankfully we all agreed that was enough for the year except one person who raised his hand  when we asked for a show of hands to see who wanted to surf, good on ya Adi, no harm in trying mate.

I wish to thank all the members for their enthusiasm in making a our 20th anniversary year one to remember especially the social girls Mel, Jan and Kerry who did a fair bit of organizing in order to make our function night all come together plus the rest of the committee members Wazza, Marg, Col W, Alan, Steve, Eric and Mick it was a job well done by all throughout the year. We also now have a new web master at the helm Grant who certainly does not lack in enthusiasm in this dept; may have to throw a few sandbags on him to slow him down.

Something to think about for next year how can we take that one step further and offer some type of social events concerning surfing; i.e. surf trips away for 2 to 4 days or a week away not clashing with our club round. Col Woodbury could investigate this for us with some of the Caravan or Camping parks in his jurisdiction. The Wrecks and Relics weekend in June at Noosa you don’t have to be over 50 to come up and join us to have a good time. A trip overseas later in the year, another one for those who are interested an old Mal day with members reliving the past or for those members who would like to ride one of the old classics beasts I have 8 old Mals at the moment and they are breeding so I can contribute for the day and I am sure there are a few members who have some gathering dust that could bring them along for the day just a few ideas to toss around for 2011.

Before signing off on my last captain’s report for the year congratulations to all the winners with their respective placing, it seems it was a victory for the girls and it will be a relief to some that Eric has decided not to surf in the club rounds next year but to help out with the running of the comps. 

I enjoyed being involved in my role as captain for 2010 it was learning curve believe me and I will be back next year to help out in any way I can with the club and as I have said before  there is a strong comradeship within in this club which can be felt by all. I will leave you with a quote by one of the great American statesman Alfred E. Newman  “What Me Worry?” as Alf would put it “Going left!”.

Keep well everyone and may you and your families have a very Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year.

Bruce.

November comp results:

Firsts:                    1 Steve Watts, 2 Paul Abbott, 3 Adi Lengyl, 4 Eric Walker.
Seconds:              1 Mel Mott, 2 Colin Harper, 3 Paul Bioletti, 4 Col Woodbry.
Thirds:                  1 Brian Delaney, 2 Alan Rich, 3 Marg Bryant, 4 Phil Calnan.
Fourths:               1 Gavin Calnan, 2 Bruce Wilson, 3 Grant Edwards, 4 Mick Wilson. 

PHOTOGRAPHER’S NOTE:
Having just gone through the exercise of finding the best of the best photos I’d taken of everyone over the last handful of years to pin up at the Anniversary dinner, it blew me away that the very next morning I got the best shots I’d ever taken of three of our illustrious crew members. Had they only been available for the night before I would have been up for all to see.

Get ready to be jealous, gang, of our hotties Gavin Calnan, Paul Bioletti and Paul Abbott who were going off during their heats. Rip it!

LINK TO PHOTO GALLERY
http://www.ballinamalibuclub.org/photos.htm

Winners of sponsors prizes for November

Thanks to our sponsors of the November comp prizes:

MI THAI RESTAURANT dinner, Lennox Head: Adi Lengyl

MALIBU BURGERS vouchers, River and Cherry Sts, Ballina:

Steve Watts, Paul Abbott, Adi Lengyl, Eric Walker, Mel Mott, Brian Delaney, Gavin Calnan

20th Anniversary Reunion Dinner

The BMC 20 year Reunion Party was a great night with about 120 celebrants strewn across the premises of the Cherry Street Sports Club.

Beforehand Wazza was a bit concerned about the speeches going to time. On the night, though, all that was forgotten because we owned the place. I didn’t look at my watch and I doubt that many others did either. It flowed like it was planned. Well, it was planned! Your committee spent most of this year making sure it was ‘casually elegant’ and that everything went seamlessly. Which it did except for one thing. We each were secretly barracking for the board to be won by someone else. The rig was definitely not on, although the announcement gave Chris Bull’s heart a fleeting flutter for just a second.

Wazza had the idea to present some life memberships and the executive committee, who were  solidly behind him, were sworn to secrecy. It went so well that Ecka not only took to the microphone, but he wouldn’t let it go! You don’t see that too often. Congratulations and thanks to Pete Wilcox, Phil Calnan and Eric Walker for all you’ve contributed to the club, and over the twenty years that’s no small amount of contribution either.

In the sartorial stakes Phil Calnan virtually danced his way up to the podium in his outrageous surf slacks. He collected the prize for the Best-dressed Retro. (We just might start calling him “Tablecloth Calnan” from now on.)

Jan Webster put in a big effort to take the field in the women’s retro stakes. Good on ya Jan and Phil. (Kind of like King and Queen of the prom?)

As far as I’m concerned, Honourable mention MUST go to both ‘Hairy’ Pete Wilcox and Colin Harper. Talk about two blokes at opposite ends of the spectrum! Too bad you both couldn’t have won as well but maybe “Tablecloth” will share some of his spoils with you??! On second thought, there are enough Calnans already to go around so I don’t fancy your chances.

Speaking of retro, Bruce Wilson’s retro surfboard display captured a lot of interest once people worked out where it was, which they certainly did. Great job, Bruce. Mel Mott was coveting the plastic blow-up palm tree that she and the girls set up. Hands to yourself, Mel! It was a Museum-for-a-night and came off really well. Thanks to everyone who contributed towards it.

If you didn’t get the message on the night, the photos that I took that were on the windows were meant to be taken home by their owners. Quite a few of you did but to any of the rest, if you still want yours you better ask the girls who cleaned up what happened to them!

Mal and the Longboarders performed like the surf stars they are and at the end of the night, for all you who left earlier, you’ll be proud to know we were the last to leave so the long-partying Club staff could finally clock off.

The plan to have several people take photos worked really well because not everyone captured everything but everyone captured everything. Go to the gallery to relive it all in glorious colour. There are close to 200 photos and captions were beyond our technical inclinations to provide. In other words, just go there and look at the pictures. They say a million words.

LINK TO PHOTO GALLERY
http://www.ballinamalibuclub.org/photos.htm

Anniversary Board Raffle winner

When the winner of the board was drawn somebody announced that it was “Chris Bull’s friend”. Unfortunately for Chris, he heard the announcer say “Chris Bull” and was all stoked for a millisecond until he heard the rest of it. ‘Chris Bull’s friend’, Leonie Rowe, wrote the club a thank you note with a photo. Here it is:

----- Original Message -----
From: Leonie
To: Ballinamalibuclub.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 7:43 PM
Subject: Board Winner Thank you

Just a brief note to say thank you so much for the fabulous prize of the custom made surfboard to celebrate 20 years for the Ballina Mal Club.

I have given this board to my partner, Tracy Kelley, who is a long board rider and a former member of the Byron Bay Mal Club.

Trace was away working in Mackay at the time the raffle was drawn and it was a brilliant welcome home gift on his return.

My thanks once again for the board which topped off a great night where I was made very welcome.

It was great to see such a good turn out to celebrate this special occasion.

Cheers,
Leonie Rowe and Tracy Kelley

Pic of the Month – Gavin Calnan (Go GAV Go)

Camera-shy Gavin Calnan is this month’s Pic of the Month. Gavin doesn’t get waves like this in front of cameras very often. In fact, he doesn’t get waves like this very often. In fact, he doesn’t get waves like this, full stop! But he did during the November comp at Flat Rock. So there!

I reckon Gav had to have been ripped off somehow in his first heat where he scored this view of the lip. He deserved better in my opinion. Unfortunately/fortunately for Gavin, I wasn’t judging, I was taking pictures. All’s well that ends well and Gav came back for the second round and trounced his competitors in the fourths. With this kind of form, what else could you expect?

The boy, who never strays too far from the club BBQ, must have been delighted with a voucher for a Malibu Burger in recognition of his win. Congratulations and bon apetit.

End Of Year Presentation Party And 2010 Results

Well Social Surfers, it’s been and gone. The surf has packed up lately and gone on holidays somewhere secret; at least I don’t know its whereabouts, and it’s just as well that the club has had some first class partying on its agenda to leap into the gap.

Of course I’m talking about our end of year Presentation Party. Three cheers for the Cherry Street Sports Club for being such good sports when it comes to sponsorship. Another couple of cheers for whoever picked up the beer and esky ice and all the snags, skewers and BBQ treats. Pete and Kerry Wilcox hosted another great party and a good time was had by all. Or mostly all because if you weren’t there you missed out.

There was even an appearance by a mystery-man sporting cuts all over his upper lip. I wonder who it could have been? The night was rounded out by live music courtesy of famous musos Mr Harper and Paul. No, not Ben Harper and Paul McCartney, Colin Harper and Paul Bioletti. It was a real hootenanny until I shoved the Eagles into the equation. Oh yeah.

The results of the 2010 competition year were a shock to all. Eric Walker WON the Firsts division! How about that?! Grant Edwards did well in second. Well enough to even beat Eric once. That’s more than most of us will ever be able to say!

Winners are grinners (da EK wit da PRES)

In the Seconds it was déjà vu to Mel Mott defending her 2009 title. You want to know what makes her tick? Read her profile below. And if you want to get past her in 2011 you’d better study it real hard.  Right up there in the most improved stakes was Paul Bioletti in the runner-up position in the Seconds. Good effort, son.

The Thirds were dominated by Paul Abbott who pipped Bruce Wilson for the title. Well done to you both. How good is our Club Captain for not ruthlessly re-engineering the results behind our backs? What a true champion. I’m sure Paul agrees.

The Fourths was a family affair with the W-W sisters, Wilcox and Webster, settling any family feuds in that order. Congratulations Kerry and Jan.
Club Person of 2010 was Alan Rich. I had to put that in because I’ve ended up writing more of these things than anyone else I guess. Anyway, it’s a BIG sucka, I’ll say that for it.

Steve Watts took home the annual Most Improved trophy, another big sucka. A big improvement in the results had Steve just pipped for a permanent trophy in the firsts to go along with his annual award. Rumour has it that he can do a back-to-back if he just figures out how to hang five by the end of 2011. Watch out, gang. The bar’s been set.

Steve Watts really improved his performance standings this year and it’s just as well. Both Col Harper and Paul Bioletti gave him a good run for his money I reckon.

Col came in 9th overall this year on unadjusted and unofficial ratings (meaning I counted them up) surpassing even The Great Pete Wilcox. Wow. That’s an impressive result Col. Even better yet was Paul Bioletti. Paul was cutting loose in the last club comp for the year (November as it worked out: see my pictures in the gallery) and placed a very respectable overall 7th.

Now, I’ve always done pretty good in our trivia rounds but I’ll be damned if I am ever going to work out how our club ratings are calculated. Nonetheless, going on a 30 point award per contest (with first place getting 30), I am presenting the results of my calculations for the 2010 Ballina Malibu Club top ten surfers (these are UNOFFICIAL in the likely event that I’ve got them wrong). I’m not going past 10 because I reckon it is likely that I’ve probably made some mistake(s) so why bother. Furthermore, the Captain’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into unless it’s really brief (small enough to be written on a large note)(to the Secretary).

2010 club placings

One thing I did work out is that only three of us surfed in all nine comps. Guess who? Eric Walker, Grant Edwards and Bruce Wilson. If you take a look at the results, the moral of the story is that, yet again, perseverance pays off for the wicked (in trophies).

Members Profile - A chat with Mel Mott

Name
Mel Mott

Age
Turned half a century this year!

Family
Husband Daniel, head chef/ co-owner Mi Thai restaurant in Lennox Head. I met Daniel when I was living in London in 1986. My family (mother, brothers, nephews, nieces etc) live at Tweed Heads,  Qld and in Victoria.  Daniel's family all live in France, so we try and visit them there every second year (a tough gig but duty impels ha ha!)

Where do you live now
Lennox Head for the last 13 years for me. I grew up in Tweed Heads from age 7 and went to Tweed River High School, finishing the HSC in 1978. 

My first connection with Ballina though was when I was still an infant. We had a holiday house on the hill overlooking Shelley Beach, east Ballina. My dad was a mad keen fisherman and a dentist.  I was born in Dubbo, and we moved from there to Tweed in 1967, where he set up his practice in Bay Street. You could see the Tweed River Bar from his upstairs rooms.    I distinctly remember my first encounter at Lighthouse beach in Ballina with a blue bottle age about 4, and swimming in the rock pool at Shelley Beach as a child. Magical memories and when I first fell in love with the ocean, the beach and the waves, and started (body) surfing.

Why did you end up where you are now, how and when
That is too long story! But basically, the connection goes back a long way and though I have travelled to many beautiful places around this world, eventually returning to FNC NSW was always my plan.

What is your current job
I am an occupational therapist and for the last 13 years I have worked in vocational rehabilitation for CRS Australia. CRS Australia is a federal government Disability Employment Service provider, assisting people who have health conditions, and/ or permanent disabilities to obtain and keep suitable work, or to return to their job after injury or illness.  It is challenging but rewarding when you are able to help someone into work and it turns their life around.

How old were you when you started surfing
Body surfing from ?3-10 Surfmat: 11-15 Shortboard: 16-current.  Took up longboarding about 13 years ago, but I must say I had NO idea for at least the first 7 years.  I still lapse into shortboarding style, especially since I took up “SUPing” about 2 years ago. I am now feeling almost fully evolved as a surfer! - Ha - just kidding...a bit.

Where was that and why
When I was 11 and we temporarily lived in Tweed Heads CBD, my family moved next door to this couple with an only daughter, Teresa, who was a year older. We took up surf matting at Greenmount Point and Rainbow Bay after school and every weekend.  We'd go on our bikes. My friend got introduced to short boarding by this other girl in her year, who had older surfing brothers and didn't mind us tagging along. They were Seventh Day Adventists so they weren't the regular type of “surfie” (imagine the surf scene at Coolangatta 1976- not girl friendly!) I bought as my first board a real second-hand dog from the newly opened little Kirra Surf shop. No idea what brand, it was about 7 foot, in pretty rough condition and it cost $5.00. The (single) fin soon fell out, and I got it them to replace it.  Then it made a noise like a steam engine whistle when I caught a wave. Too embarrassing, so it had to go!

I still have my original first custom made surfboard; made in 1979, single fin, 5' 9'' long, “Ocean Forms” brand. I went along to watch it being hand-shaped and when it was finished I thought it was the most beautiful thing I'd ever seen. It now sits pride of place in my living room cos luckily one of my brothers looked after it for me when I went travelling overseas for a few years.

Did your parents surf
No, but one of my older brothers did. He was in the same year as Rabbit Bartholomew at Tweed River High, but I was only 12 and he wasn’t interested in taking me surfing. 

Which is your best foot forward
Left

What is your favourite type of wave
I like all waves. Clean, peeling, hollow right hand ones are best, but I am not fussy.

Where are your favourite surf spot(s)
Since I started “supping”, Lennox Boat Channel

Where do you surf locally
LBC, north Shelley, Missingham Bridge, Wategos most frequently these days.

How many surfers does it take to make a crowd at flat rock
It only takes one if they are selfish, thoughtless, clueless and/ or arrogant.

Photo by Evelyn Rich (nice birds Ev, Grant)

Have you surfed many different places? For instance…?
Gosh! A long list but not nearly as long as I hope it will be in about another 20 years!  Highlights...Overseas- North Shore Oahu, Maldives, Bali, and earlier this year Supertubes at Jeffreys Bay South Africa.  In Australia, well of course our back yard here on the north coast is very special. Another highlight for me is Phillip Is in Victoria, which has so many great and varied breaks.

Where and when was the best surf you ever had
Mmmm...hard to rate a “best” as there are so many different “perfect” days, but Marg can vouch for a particular day at Broken Head 10 years ago, which was just before we flew out to holiday in the Maldives. 4-6 ft perfect peeling right handers, with stand up bowl sections...glassy as...

What was your best surf holiday
Bali with my friend from Phillip Is and her dad for 2 weeks.  Surf, eat, surf, eat, sleep surf etc for 2 weeks, with occasional shopping trips in between.

Describe one of the most memorable waves you’ve ever ridden
Could not do it justice so won't even try, but it did involve dolphins surfing with me and it was at Flat Rock.

Who is the best surfer you’ve ever been out in the water with
Steph Gilmore, Pauline Menczer, and a long time ago at places like Kirra and Snapper, Michael Peterson (but he just gave me filthy looks) , Rabbit Bartholomew and Pete Townsend. Chelsea Williams, Jodie Barsby, Melissa Combo, Isabelle Braly in the longboard dept plus of course our own Eric Walker!

Who is the best surfer you’ve ever ridden the same wave with
N/A

(EDITOR’S NOTE: Interesting answer!)

What is your nickname and how did you get it
Mel, from Melanie.

Why did you decide to join the club
Cos my good pals Marg, Kerry and Jan were in it, I liked the format of the competition, the cruisy vibe and BBQ, and the fact that I was not responsible for organising anything (until this year)!

Name your favourite surfing movies and why
Blue Crush (for obvious reasons); Crystal Voyager (cos of the wave/ water photography); Endless Summer (for the sheer fun and adventure); and Going Vertical because it was well produced and it presented what seemed to be a balanced picture of the different sides of the story.

What kind(s) of other movies do you like
Anything as long as it does not have gratuitous extreme violence, is competently made with convincingly acted  interesting characters.  Comedies are probably my favourite though. 

What kind(s) of music do you like
Classical; Blues/ alternative/ rock; “world” music. My favourite new music at the moment is The Audreys  “Somewhere the Stars” album.

What is/are your favourite tv show(s)
I love any wildlife documentaries, and comedies and dramas on ABC or SBS. I don't watch free to air commercial TV unless the live cricket is on. I have to admit, though, True Blood has me hooked.

Besides surfing, what is/are your favourite sports
Anything in nature...but I never seem to get the chance to go bushwalking anymore.

What else interests you and why (besides surfing)
The environment; travelling; human rights; music; fine art; good books; food and wine.

What is your pet peeve
People who are aggressive, selfish and consequently dangerous on the roads or in the surf.

What do you love most
The ocean and living in this wonderful place. My many great friends and of course Daniel my husband!

What is/are your favourite food(s)
French, Thai, Indian, Mexican, Italian..

When you drink, what do you have
A nice chilled Chardonnay (preferably From South Australia) or a French champagne (preferably From Champagne!).

When you pay? 
The chardonnay.

When I pay?
The champagne (ha I wish).

What are the details of the surfboards you like to ride the most?
9' 2 ¾ SUP short board style “Lennox Surf Designs” shaped by Al Emery and designed by him and Noel Graham from All Above Board.

What kind of board are you thinking about getting next?
A 12' 6'' SUP for open ocean “downwind” runs and for paddling on rivers / other “flat” water.

Who are your favourite surfers and why (three or more)
Steph Gilmore, Chelsea Williams and Kellie Slater.  No explanation required.

Who are your nominees for the top 10 surfers (more or less) during your lifetime and why
This is too hard but I will name Mark Richards, Kelly Slater, Simon Anderson (plus for inventing the thruster); Steph Gilmore; Chelsea Williams; Michael Peterson; Layne Beachley and Joel Parkinson.

What have been your best competition results
Australian Women’s' Masters Champion (shortboard) 1997 and recently very happy to take out the Over 40's Women's event at this year's Evans Head Longboard Invitational.

What do you like most about competing
I actually don't really like competition surfing at all. But it does push your surfing skills and fitness levels.

Are you a soul surfer at heart
Definitely

What would be your dream surf trip
Me, a bunch of surfing girlfriends, on a fully catered luxury boat (with spa facilities of course), going around tropical island breaks for 2 weeks.

How much time do you spend in the water
Never as much as I would like.

Is that enough?
No

Thanks Mel! See you in the water.

Sons of Torrance Beach

And a saltwater story of a family named Irons
By Alan Rich

The 'Sons of Torrance Beach' (tribute to the Irons Family with some great old photos) article by Alan Rich click HERE!

MR SUNSET – The Jeff Hakman Story

Mr Sunset – The Jeff Hakman Story. Phil Jarratt, 1997. Gen X Publishing, London.
Reviewed by Alan Rich.

Usually when Dickie Hoole owes you money he’ll come rolling up the drive in his beaten-up van and, once parked, hand out as many various items of surf paraphernalia as he can coax you to take. This is in his hopes of furthering some fictitious perceived level of bartering credits. Although Ev insists that Dickie stick to cash, on one of those occasions a copy of MR SUNSET – The Jeff Hakman Story, must have come to hand and to rest on my shelf. Jarratt had obviously given him some books.

I first got to know Jeff Hakman a long time ago when I started surfing at Torrance Beach. I had just turned 15 and he was nearing 13. He soon moved to Hawaii though which was where his story really evolved. Having known Jeff, over the years and over the waves as our paths kept crossing, I unfortunately knew enough about his story to not want to race into reading the details of his demons. Consequently the book sat on my bookshelf. It sat there for years, actually, unread.

I decided a few newsletters ago that, after reviewing Jarratt’s latest book, Salts and Suits, within which Jeff has an important part, I would write a review of Mr Sunset, The Jeff Hakman Story, for the newsletter sometime soon. It was about time I cracked it open.

So I dusted the tops of pages off and had a go. I read the book but, after reading it, again I didn’t feel much like writing about it. So, again, I put it off. Not because it wasn’t a good book, it is, but because of the story within it. I’ve realised, though, that if I don’t finish this now I never will. I should probably stop making promises to do things on impulse!

I don’t intend to retell Jeff’s story, after all, that’s what the book is for. But, as it says in the jacket cover, it relates his biography “through the eyes of one man, who scaled the dizzy heights but also plumbed the stony depths”. Phil Jarratt has not been one to step back from controversy and Jeff’s story certainly is testimonial to that.

Mr Sunset is a biography that starts off in 1935, before Jeff was born, and tells his story to the date of the book’s release which was 1997.

Jeff Hakman, Sunset Beach 1970. Photo: Alan Rich Films.

The inside jacket cover sums it up pretty well. “From that magical first wave in the 1950’s, through his pioneering big wave riding in the 1960s and his charge to the top of world professional surfing in the 1970s, the Jeff Hakman story is also the tale of an entire generation which fell under the spell of surfing, music and, in some cases, drugs.”

Jeff’s biggest problem, in his own words, was that he just couldn’t say ‘no’ to heroin. This is not an isolated problem on the North Shore, but Jeff’s way of handling it was probably his own. If anything, Jeff came out ‘the other side’ and conquered his weakness. That is the happy-ending part of the tale. There are too many other names in, and out, of the pages of those who were not so strong or so lucky to do as well or, indeed, to even come through.

In that respect it is less a story of surfing than it is a story of life and life’s challenges. If you don’t already know it, the Jeff Hakman story is one worth knowing. It’s real and surreal at the same time. I don’t regret having read it, don’t get me wrong; but at the end it is rather tragic how differently Jeff’s life might have turned out for the better had he travelled a different path. I don’t know how he’s doing now, I haven’t heard any postscripts lately, but I wish him well and hope that’s how it will stay.

The Jeff Hakman story is 192 pages of very easy reading. Highly illustrated, each of the 32 chapters is a vignette of his complex story. They mostly are very short chapters, about 4 pages or so, and half of those pages are usually pictures. Jarratt knows how to write for surfers.

I don’t know where you might find a copy of Mr Sunset in the stores anymore. Probably you can get it in Noosa at Phil Jarratt’s Back Beach surf shop. There is one copy in the library at Ballina but as I wrote this it was on its way to Tweed following a reservation. If anyone wants to read my copy just let me know, promise to bring it back right away, smile and I probably can be persuaded to loan it to you over Christmas. Cheers.

Alan.

People who Surf: Frank Fenner Memorial

One of Australia’s most distinguished scientists, Frank Fenner of Canberra, passed away recently. A state memorial service will be held for him on December 17. Frank was one of the world’s pre-eminent epidemiologists; the man who rid the world of smallpox. An international giant in the fields of medicine and biology.

What, you ask, does this have to do with surfing in Ballina? Let me tell you. I met Frank through an organisation I’ve been a member of for a long time; Australians for an Ecologically Sustainable Population (now called Sustainable Population Australia). We’re both true believers and he was one of its prominent Patrons. That’s because he was so smart, of course.

Anyway, to my surprise while I was on council I also met Frank’s grand-daughter. She spent a rather short time working as a planner for Ballina Council a while back. The surfing part? She told me she grew up on the far south coast of NSW where her Mum and Dad ran a surf shop for a number of years.

So there you have it. One of Australia’s greatest scientist’s daughter ran a surf shop on the south coast plus his grand-daughter lived in Ballina for a while too. Just as long as your family’s happy, you know? That’s what counts.
It just goes to show you, you never know just who that stranger is who might be sitting out in the water next to you at Flattie, do you? Frank Fenner, thank you. Surfers will be in attendance at your memorial.

Alan.

Emeritus Professor Fenner in his lab (mixing up a special batch of wax perhaps??) (AAP: Alan Porritt, file photo)

FROM THE ABC NEWS WEBSITE:

Memorial service to honour Fenner
Australian scientist Frank Fenner will be honoured with a state memorial service on December 17. A state memorial service will be held in Canberra to honour world renowned scientist Frank Fenner. Professor Fenner died last week aged 95.

He was best known for his work in eradicating smallpox and control of Australia's rabbit plague through myxomatosis.

After serving as an officer in the Australian Army Medical Corps during World War II, he came to work at the Australian National University (ANU) where he went on to head the John Curtin School of Medical Research. Professor Fenner won numerous awards including the Albert Einstein World Award for Science in 2000 and the Prime Minister's Science Prize in 2002.

Prime Minister Julia Gillard says the service will give people the opportunity to pay their respects to a remarkable Australian whose work touched the lives of many around the world.

PARTY HARDY

Hope this time around your Chrissie presents are doubled! Happy birthdays to Bruce Wilson, Colin Woodbry, Brian Fryer and Terry Hargrave (Terry Who?!) who have December and January birthdays.

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HOW TO VIEW THE PHOTOS IN THE NEW GALLERIES

Go to the gallery web page and select a gallery link to click on. The gallery will open up in a new page.
View the thumbnails. The captions are underneath each one. Click an image once to enlarge it to medium-size on the same page. The caption is under the photo.
To view the next or previous medium-sized enlarged image: move the cursor to the left or right edge of the image and click once. You can scroll through the entire gallery this way.
To enlarge an image to full size requires a number of steps and can be a bit ‘tricky’ using this program. To do so click once on ‘Full size image’ by the top right corner of the photo. The photo enlarges. You can increase the size of the ‘full size’ image by moving the cursor over it and clicking once. A ‘+’ or a ‘-‘ sign appears in place of the cursor.
To return to the gallery page to continue viewing thumbnails and medium sized enlargements you MUST use the BACK ARROW on your browser program. There is no link to return to the gallery from the full size image page. This is the tricky part.
To view the image at maximum size on your computer you can also press F11 on your keyboard for a full-screen view. To return to normal-screen view (and your BACK ARROW) you need to again press the F11 key. Try it, you’ll like it.
If this doesn’t work, let us know. Get in touch with Grant, not Alan!